Glaciers, Huasos and Cruise Endings

Chilean Fjords

We spent the last three days of the cruise alternating between sheltered inside passage waters of the Chilean fjords and the rougher open waters of the Pacific Ocean. Even when out on the Pacific the seas were calm compared to the Atlantic and Drakes Passage waters.

The fjords are beautiful, bounded by mountains, spotted here and there with volcanic peaks, and tree covered islands that rise steeply out of the ocean. There is no habitation through here as it is part of a national park.

The highlight of the fjords was the Amalia Glacier extending from the high Andes to the ocean which due to compression has turned into a vast field of blue ice. Some intrepid explorers have traversed the ice field into Argentina - a daunting task as it is full of crevasses and broken ice.

Amalia Glacier

Little Fuji

The next port of call was Puerto Montt, situated at the northern edge of Patagonia and the start of the Chilean Lakes district. We did not venture into Puerto Montt but opted for a rural tour to Puerto Varas, a cute Bavarian tourist town, with lots of shops and artisan stalls, situated on a fresh water lake, Lago Llanquihue. It is really pretty here with the mountains, volcanos, etc all around. There is one snow covered volcanic mountain here they have nicknamed Little Fuji, after Fuji San.

We then went out to a Horse farm and also watched traditional Chilean dancing performed by a group of young people. The one pair was around ten and were the regional champions for this region and a young lady, 22, is the national champion. They really danced well. Next an overview of the Chilean cowboy and how they train horses. Then off to a demonstration of their horse skills and what their rodeo competitions are like. They have some really well trained horses that do some things I have never seen before. I would have tried one of the events if they had asked for volunteers!

About ten years old, the regional champions

First they put the horses through a set of skills that the rider and horse must accomplish prior to being allowed to start training for the main event. These consisted of loping in two circles on the right lead and then two on the left lead, then two sets of figure eights. Nothing any well trained North American ranch, reining or rodeo horse could not do.

Then they train their horses to side pass at a rate equal to another horse loping. This side passing is needed for the main event, as one huaso chases a bull around the arena at a lope, the other huaso must keep his horse's head over the bulls back while his horse side passes at the same speed. When they get to a padded portion of the arena wall then the second huaso must force the bull to a stop with his horses chest. Then they reverse positions and back they come the other way. Points are given for the quickness of the stop at the padded wall and the position of the stopping horse in relation to the bulls body. No points if the horse is in front of the bulls shoulders.

Moving the animal

I have never seen horses that could side pass at that speed and stay on their feet. Very exciting performance.

Then a BBQ, I think they used the last training bull for the beef, tasty but oh so chewy! Then the dancers came out again to dance with us. Quite a sight, ten year olds trying to teach sixty year olds a spanish dance. My little partner was only 14, really shy and cute, and I could do the Dawson Creek two step shuffle to the music, so she went along and even allowed me to lead.

Dawson Creek two step!

We spent the last day at sea visiting with friends, I met up with Harm and Elly for an afternoon whiskey and then Loreen and I spent the evening visiting with Bill and Karen. Tomorrow we disembark in Valparaiso.