Nazareth and Galilee

A day trip from Haifa took us to the central mountains of Israel to Nazareth and then down into the valley of the Sea of Galilee and the Jordan River.

We travelled through irrigated farm land outside of Haifa up into the foothills and passes of the mountains. Israel does not get much rain and with the start of the rainy season all Israeli's were happy, they need every drop they can get. Israel has massive water pipelines taking potable and irrigation water to places that just get no precipitation.

Not being able to import any oil from the oil rich nations bordering Israel they import from the US and as such have moved to alternate means of generating hydro, mostly through solar. Every building has solar panels on the roofs.

As the name suggests the tour was about visiting the areas where Christianity was born through Christ and his followers. I am not a religious person and was interested in the total history of the area, a Holy Land tour is a Holy Land tour, so I am putting down what we saw and where we went.

First stop the Church of the Annunciation in Nazareth, this is where the announcement from the Angel Gabriel to the Virgin Mary of the coming birth took place.

Motif of the Angel and Mary, Church of the Annunciation



This is a very large beautiful church, as Catholic Church's can be, with grottos and Churches of other faiths near by.

Into the Grotto



Although Jesus grew up in Nazareth, most of his preaching was done around the Sea of Galilee and the Jordon River. He lived at Capernaum with Peter, and as his congregation and followers grew, they continued to build new walls around the original home. What started as a one room dwelling became much more.

The stone wall foundations of the home of Peter and Jesus



The Mount of Beatitudes, where Jesus delivered the sermon on the Mount is now home to a Catholic Church funded by the Italian government. Then we drove back into the valley for a stop on the Galilee where the miracle of the loaves and fishes was and to a kibbutz hotel for lunch.

The Sea of Galilee

 We drove down the east side of the Galilee, through a lush valley full of kibbutz's. These are communal style farms established on the edges of the Israel borders and some have become very wealthy, now owning factories, hotels and other businesses. The people that started these wanted to be at the edge of any intrusion into Israel and while I surmised they were ultra religious, was informed that while of Jewish descent, most were atheists.

Kibbutz farm homes

This drive followed the western base of the Golan Heights and I was able to get the guide to point out the escarpments the Israelis ascended at night under the guns of the Syrian army bombarding the Galilee during the Six Day War of 1967. While we were in Israel, Syrian forces came into the no go zone patrolled by the UN. This had Israel a bit excited. 

At the southern end of the Sea of Galilee, the River Jordon starts its journey south through Israel and Jordon. This is where John baptised Jesus and today it is a great tourist and pilgrimage stop while in Israel.

Modern day Baptism in the River Jordan

Over looking the River Jordan

The Holy Land

Wow, what an opportunity to see all the places were the beginning of Christianity came from. We ported in Ashdod, Israel, which is the transportation port of the country. Israel itself is a very small country, about 750kms from north to south and 150kms at its widest point east to west. It was bigger, but Israel gave the Siana, east of the Suez Canal, back to Egypt for a peace agreement and most of the West Bank of the Jordan River to Jordan for a peace treaty. 

A great portion of the land around Jerusalem was ruled by Jewish Kings until the Jews were conquered and then exiled from their home lands by the Roman legions. Now it is a country of about 8 million (20% Arab) that wakes up each morning wondering if they will be bombed by some neighboring company bent on eliminating the Jewish race.

We took a day trip to Tel Aviv, the commercial and financial center of the country. Tel Aviv is a big modern city with lots of new high rises and ongoing construction. Tel Aviv adjoins Jaffa, which may be the oldest port in the world.

Then to Jerusalem, the focal point of Christianity and Judaism and also considered a holy place by Islam. A city of old and new, contrasts and complexities, Jerusalem has something to offer every one. Originally named the capital of Israel in 996 BC by King David, Jerusalem has been conquered and partially destroyed by Romans, Muslims, Crusaders, The Ottoman Empire, Britain, Jordan and present day Israel.

At the Mount of Olives, place of the Ascension, we wandered through olive groves hundreds of years old and visited the Church of Ascension. From there we could also see the wall that separates Jerusalem from Bethlehem, which is located within The Palestinian Authority of the West Bank.

Olive Trees at the Church of Ascension, Mount of Olives

The old city of Jerusalem is totally surrounded by walls built and maintained by various conquerors over the years. The temple that Solomon built has been destroyed, rebuilt and destroyed throughout the the years. The Dome of the Rock Mosque was built over the original temple site by Muslim's in 632.

Dome of the Rock

Gate into the Old City

Only the Western Wall, called the "Wailing Wall" still exists. Within a few meters of the Wailing Wall there are at least three churches, two mosques and a synagogue. It seems that all religions come into this area to worship peacefully.

Loreen at the Western Wall




As men and women cannot pray in the same areas at the wall, I was off to the men's section.

Heading to pray!

There are several huge church buildings in Israel that have multiple Churches inside. Adjacent to the Western Wall is is the Church of the Holy Sepulcher which is shared by numerous Christian denominations. This large building and its multiple churches are built on the site where Jesus was crucified, entombed and resurrected.

Then we were off to walk the Via Dolorosa (Way of the Cross) the mile long route that Jesus walked with the cross from the point of condemnation to Crucifixion. At that time the route was through wide streets and open fields, today it a very narrow street with shops on both sides and full of people. We met about 5,000 Muslim's on their way to the Dome of the Rock for noon prayers, we tourists going the opposite way probably out numbered them, so it made for crowded streets.

First Place Jesus dropped the Cross

Bethlehem, best known for the birth place of Jesus, was also the birthplace of King David. Bethlehem is under the Palestinian Authority, so the procedure is drive to the security point with an Israeli guide and then walk through the gate and continue on with a Palestinian guide. We were lucky, our guide was also licensed in Bethlehem so we just went through. He did get a lot of guff from the Palestinians, though.
Bethlehem is mostly populated by Christian Arabs, and there are many Christian shops.

Loreen in the tunnel in the Church of Nativity

We went to the Church of the Nativity, built in 530, built over top of the stable area where Jesus was born. The Church of the Nativity houses three churches, Greek, Armenian and Roman.  The grotto of the birth place is under the church and is open, we did not go as it was too crowded and hundreds of people light candles in the grotto. Just a little too much for us.



Inside the Church of Nativity

Cruising to Egypt

We spent our last day in Italy in the Port of Civitavecchia, a gritty port city on the outskirts of Rome. Then onto the Celebrity Silhouette, our cruise ship for a tour of the Mediterranean, with stops in Egypt, Israel, Turkey, Greece, Sicily, Naples/Pompeii and then back to Rome.

Two days at sea, during which Loreen fed up with the lack of cleanliness in our room, asked guest services for cleaning products so she could clean it to other cruise line standards, resulted in an immediate upgrade to a new room with a balcony!  That's my girl, I would never of thought of that:)

We docked in Alexandria, Egypt (established by Alexander the Great in 332 BC) and spent a day visiting the pyramids, the sphinx, a lunch cruise on the River Nile in Cairo, and a large Muslim mosque. What an amazing day, although it was a little startling when the tour company informed us that every second or third bus would have a plain clothes, armed policeman on it. Not sure if it was to protect us or to protect the locals!

The Pyramids of Giza

Sphinx and his missing nose!

Standing at the front of the sphinx with the pyramids in the background and miles of desert was an experience I will never forget. Scattered around the area are small horse and camel caravans that wind through the desert and the pyramids.



Camel Caravan

Even though these caravans are mostly tourist scams, where they offer a ride for five dollars and then once you are on the camel they want fifty dollars to let you off, it is still a pretty spectacular sight to see.  (Our tour guide negotiated us a deal for $10 which I am sorry now I didn't take). 

Isn't she cute!

It boggles the mind to think of these huge structures being built centuries ago with no motors or hydraulics to get the huge stones up so high. The fitting of the stones together, where there are perfect ninety degree joints is also a mystery to me.

Jointed with a chisel!

Then onto an Egyptian river barge for a one and half hour cruise and buffet lunch on the Nile. The cruise boat was modelled after the ones that are depicted as the Royal Barge in Cleopatra movies.

The River Nile

The food was pretty western style and the big entertainment was the belly dancer from Argentina! Again, we were shadowed by a police boat with two armed policemen the total time we were on the river.

Then off to the Citadel of Salah-El-Din, built between 1176 and 1182, that includes the Alabaster Mosque of Mohamed Ali, not the boxer, a much older Mohamed! Again the place is huge, and built out of alabaster and marble.

The Alabaster Mosque

The excitement of the day took place when Loreen was stormed by a group of 12 to 14 year old school girls that all wanted to practice their English. She was thrilled, they were thrilled and their male teacher angry. Our well educated female guide explained to us the teacher was likely embarrassed that they could converse in English and alarmed that they would talk so freely with a westerner. They even came and asked me my name, which is against some cultural beliefs.

There is still a political gulf between the various groups of people in Egypt. Although most are of the Muslim faith, many are opposed to the present Islamic government, especially the mid twenty to forty year old educated. They are still protesting quietly against the election results.

Florence, Pisa and the Cinque Terre

Calgary-Amsterdam-Florence was a long flight.  Immigration and Customs in Amsterdam was quick and efficient, they stamped our passports even though we never left the airport, and then onto the plane for Florence. Immigration and Customs in Florence consisted of one dog, with his handler, wagging its tail and sniffing luggage.  I guess once you clear customs into the first EU country that's it - there were no more customs in Greece or Turkey.

Florence is a beautiful city, as one local stated it is like an open air city museum, with renaissance buildings and art.  For instance, we stayed at the Machiavelli Palace Hotel which is attached to a church founded in 1206 that belonged to the Knights Templar. In the early 1700's a small convent was built next to the church which is now the hotel. Two noble Florentine families, very famous for their political and commercial initiatives, bought and renovated the convent to this hotel in 1990. 



Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore

There are numerous squares, plazas and cathedrals that have statues and art from all the various renaissance period artists. There were way to many to visit in the time we were there. The original statue of David, by Michelangelo is in the Museum of Academia, but we settled for going to the famous Piazza della Signoria which is a 14th century sculpture showcase where they have a copy of the original David (original was there until the late 1800's).



Copy of David


The Piazza also houses the Loggia of Orcagna, which houses 15 statues by the great masters, who did seem to love nudes and violence!

 

Rape of the Sabine

Ponte Vecchio, built in 1177, is a bridge that crosses the River Arno. Built with stores and shops along both sides it now is home to some 30+ fine jewellery stores and a gold and diamond shopping mecca for tourists.

 

Ponte Vecchio

We took a sight-seeing and wine tasting tour through the Tuscan countryside which included visiting three medieval villages. The countryside is beautiful with rolling hills, large agriculture scenes and quaint villages. 

 

Tuscany in the rain

Then off to Pisa on a day trip to visit the leaning tower. Pisa is a really nice city, friendly and easy to get around. The tower is situated in the Piazza dei Miracoli and was built in 1173 as the bell tower for the Cathedral. It started sinking in 1185 and construction was halted for the next century. Construction then continues and it is what we see today.  

 

Leaning Tower of Pisa and Cathedral

Although the Tower is the big draw to the area, the rest of the Piazza is equally stunning, with both the Cathedral and the Baptistry being beautiful and now a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The Bapistry

After we left Florence, we took the train to La Spezia, where we intended to hike the Cinque Terre trails along the Mediterranean, unfortunately the trails were closed for safety reasons due to rain and mudslides, so we toured the five villages by train.

Houses growing out of the rock in Cinque Terre!

These are colorful little villages hanging off the cliffs above the Mediterranean where the folks still make their living from  fishing and terrace farming.

Cinque Terre Village

Quito and Goodbye South America

We spent the last day and a half in Quito, before coming home, it was a long trip and we did not want to sound a lot of time in a big city so did not see much of Quito.

It was about a two hour bus ride from Peguche to Quito and parts of it through vast areas of green houses where roses are grown for export. Ecuador exports a lot of roses to other parts of the world. A bouquet of roses in Ecuador costs about fifty cents, fresh out of the green house!

Farming in the Mountains

After getting settled into the hostal, we wandered around the tourist area and went to a large North American style mall, in an area where there where lots of government ministry offices and even a United Nations office. The mall had many of the same stores and fast food outlets you see in Canada. We found a nice little restaurant where we wanted to go for supper and went back to the hostal to repack and rest

Then off to the restaurant, we checked with the owner to see if it was safe for us to walk, and it was! About a block from the restaurant we were accosted by three blacks guys that came out of the bush, one in front, one from behind and one from the street. They were not a group of street singers, but they did manage to increase our heart rate for the next five or six minutes. By the time it was over they had Loreen's wedding and anniversary rings, my wedding ring, my watch and about $90 collectively from Keenan and I. Although I did not fight, I did resist and got a small cut on my chin. Keenan did put up a bit of a fight by kicking one of them in the crotch and got punched in the face. Most of my money was in an inside shirt pocket so they just ripped the shirt off. There was no one else on the sidewalk during this time.

The unhappy mugee

We contacted the police and they drove us around the underbelly of Quito for an hour or so looking for them, but no luck. They even have less respect for the police there than people do here, but the police treated us very well. It was not the best goodbye from Ecuador!

So I am the only one in my family to have been mugged twice, but Loreen has me beat, she went through two muggings and a snatch and grab when a kid tried to take her watch in Chile. While in South America we traveled fairly safe and were aware of the scams, this time we were simply in the wrong place at the wrong time.

Our last day in Quito we spent at the location the equator goes through the northern portion of the city. There are two sites where you can visit the equator, about a half a mile apart, so not sure which is the true equator, but to a tourist what the heck, I can say I have stood with one foot in the northern hemisphere and one foot in the southern hemisphere.

At the Equator

The first place is an indigenous tourism site where they have all kinds of gimmicks to try, walking a line with your eyes closed, balancing an egg on the end of a nail, which way the water swirls north or south of the line, etc. Oh and no shadows, well it is overcast or raining there most of the time so that was no trick. It was fun and we tried to figure out all the tricks that were used, the water one I think I understand.

At the Indigenous Equator Site

Then to the original site where the equator was established by a French Scientist, this one was much more developed and has several buildings where there are numerous displays. More money, fancier and maybe not as much fun. 

At the Original Site

We returned to the hostal early as we had to be at the airport at three in the morning. The three hour layover in Houston was great, lunch in the airport with a couple bottles of wine made the flight to Calgary very nice!

We had a great trip travelling through South America, seen some wonderful things, met some good people and appreciate that we ahave the ability to go on adventures like this, that said we are also so gratefull to be back home and to be able to live in a country like Canada.

Indigenous Village and Family

We spent the last week of our Ecuador experience in an indigenous community in northern Ecuador, close to the Columbian border. We came to spend time with  Keenan's host family who she stayed with in 2009 during her teaching internship.

Keenan, Loreen and the family

Piguche is a true indigenous village, most of the residents dress in traditional clothing and there are few vehicles. The hostal where Loreen and I stayed had llamas in the courtyard and pigs and chickens in the yard.

Yard Pig

While having breakfast in the cafe we would watch the villagers leading their cows down the street to pasture.

Doing the laundry and bathing Peguche style

Keenan's host family are great people, and have a large extended family that welcomed us as their own. Grandma and Gramps are both 78 and still perform their daily chores, in fact Gramps slaughters a pig once a week and butchers it for sale. 

Grampa and Grandma

We joined in with the family for the indigenous custom of honoring the dead on Good Friday. The tradition consists of the families visiting the departed members of their family at the cemetery, where they eat and share lunch with family and friends at the gravesite. They believe that this custom not only honors the family that have passed but eases the mourning process for those left behind. It seemed like there were thousands of people there having lunch.

At the cemetary

Keenan and Loreen committed to cooking a traditional turkey dinner on Easter Sunday, so Saturday was spent hunting through three different grocery stores in an adjacent town looking for ingredients. We found a turkey, so that was quite a relief. The menu included turkey, mashed potatoes, dressing, gravy, mixed salad, carrots, string beans, apple crisp, apple/pear pan dowdy and ice cream. The only things on the menu that they commonly eat were the beans, carrots and salad, everything else was new.

As they had never eaten this type of meal before they asked us to serve them - then they managed to get their own seconds. We served eighteen for dinner and it was completely enjoyed. It was the first time that Grandma and Gramps had ever had a special meal cooked for them.

Easter Dinner

We also managed to find some foil wrapped chocolate, Kinder Eggs and other treats and Keenan led the younger ones in an Easter Egg hunt, again a first for all.  The adults were more enthused than the kids!

We spent our last day in Peguche driving through the country side and seeing some of the expat communities. First, an American development that looks like suburban blue grass country with big homes, big lawns and horses in the back. Then across the valley a British retirement community, where the British government supposedly invested eight million US in infrastructure to allow British retirees to move to Ecuador and still have British type comforts. All very interesting, when both communities are bordered by indigenous corn fields.

Saying goodbye was hard, Grandma cried, Loreen cried, but it was time to move on and spend the last day and a half in Quito.     

Ecuadorian Amazon

As our winter journey winds down we are still exploring different areas of Ecuador until we move up to Otavalo to visit with Keenan's host family from her teaching internship in 2009.

Banos, baths in English, is a touristy vacation spot located on the edge of the transition zone from mountains to jungles. Banos has mineral hot pools, world class waterfalls, mountain hiking, expat micro breweries and chefs from Chicago.

Being an adventure type place, Keenan's dare devil attitude kicked in wanting to try all these adventures. Zip lines and cable cars over deep canyons, rafting, tubing, biking, canyoning etc. I kept remembering this was the place where Loreen got hurt canyoning three years ago and the guide did not have a first aid kit, just his t-shirt and a bungee cord to wrap her arm, and every thing was in high water so I drug my feet as much as I could and managed to get out of most things.

Banos Cable Car

 We did take a trip in a four wheel drive jeep with a wannabe rally car driver to the Devils Cauldron, the wildest waterfall in Ecuador and then up to the top of the highest point around Banos to look across the valley at the active volcano.

Devils Cauldren

 We got above the cloud level but the volcano was not visible so back to town the long way, through farms and villages. I was really comfortable with our driver, I like driving on the wrong side of the road speeding around corners, while he is chatting to Keenan in the back seat!

Taking hay home for the cows!

He did stop every farmer or farm lady we passed and had them pose for pictures, such as carrying the milk home, cutting grass for the cows, etc.

Taking home the milk!

 Then off to Tena, in the upper Amazon basin of Ecuador. Known as the kayaking capital of Ecuador, Tena also provides great white water rafting, float tubing, jungle treks and an Amazon Jungle experience.

After four months in South America, and six countries, we thought we had seen pretty much everything but Tena pulled out all the stops for us. We checked into our hostel room, went out on the balcony and were greeted by a giant grass hopper, five or six neighborhood chickens and a tarantula. I chased the grass hopper away, clucked at the chickens while Loreen stood on the third story ledge and flicked the tarantula off the ceiling onto the ground. When we later checked on it, it was working it's way back up the wall, where to we don't know.

Then across the river the trees started shaking and the branches swaying, I thought another rain storm was coming, but no, a troop of a couple of dozen monkeys appeared. They chased one another up and down the trees for awhile before disappearing into the jungle again.

Once we got settled in, we headed off to the "finest dining" restaurant in Tena for steak, salad and chicken breast in a nice apple purée, when all of a sudden Keenan and Loreen are screeching and jumped halfway across the room, while the waiter is trying to calm them down in his limited English. Me being me, I was casually looking around for the wasp or some insect that might have scared them, when above my head I detected some movement and looked up and there was this big lump of grey fur slowing moving across the valance. Seems we had disturbed one of the pet sloths the owner keeps in his "fine dining" restaurant. No problem, the sloth moved to a new hiding hole and we went on with our dining, for some reason we where all a bit more thirsty than usual. I was happy as finally Keenan was more scared of something than I was!

We return to the room and check it out for critters, nothing, so we all relax and are reading away when Keenan exclaims "Dad, there is a frog in here" and sure enough there the little guy was taking large jumps around the room catching flys. So we shooed it out and eagerly await the surprises tomorrow might bring.

Feeding the monkeys, Tena

Culinary delights, Tena

 On our last day in Tena we went on a river boat trip down the Napo River, the same Napo River we were on in February in Peru, only now we are on the head waters versus the outlet into the Amazon. The river is still high, but probably six feet lower than it was in March.

High Water was above the blue platform!

 We went to an indigenous museum, where we learned about the traditional methods of trapping, snaring animals and fish for food. Similar to methods used in other parts of the world, but very interesting to see traps made out of wood and vines, more like jungle booby traps really.

Face Painting on the Rio Napo

Looking for a treat!

Then we went to an animal recovery center, that takes in animals bought as pets and then when too big, are given to the recovery center to try and rehabilitate. Birds, monkeys, cats, turtles etc. About one third are too damaged or too domesticated to ever release.

Indigenous Bridge Rio Napo Area

Off to live in a high Andes indigenous village for the next week and then home to Calgary.